Chile

Inspired by Wick Fowler's two-alarm chili, which someone brought to me from America when I first moved overseas, I created this recipe made from locally accessible products and staples in my spice drawer:

2 pounds ground beef (WARNING: some ground beef is NOT gluten-free!)

1 cup (8oz) tomato paste

2 cups (16oz) water

½ Tbsp salt

1 ¼ tsp paprika

0-1 tsp red pepper - depending on how spicy you want it  : )

1 Tbsp dried onion

1 tsp garlic powder

2 tsp Cumin powder

1 tsp dried Oregano

7 Tbsp chili pepper

2 Tbsp masa (optional)

1. Sear meat in large skillet. Drain off fat.
2. Add 8 oz tomato paste
3. Add 16 oz water
4. Stir in all spices (except masa). Pick your desired amount of red pepper.
5. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes. Stir occasionally.
6. Separately, combine masa with ¼ cup warm water. Stir well.
7. Add masa mixture into chili and simmer an additional 15 minutes.
8. Add beans that have already been cooked and drained (optional).

Top with grated cheese, diced tomatoes, tortilla chips, crackers, or popcorn.

Serve over rice, noodles, tortilla chips, or eggs.

Freezes well.

Gluten-free Burma - BAGAN

If you ever dreamed of being Indiana Jones, then Bagan is for you. Thousands of ancient temples that you can explore - and by explore I mean crawl through pitch black narrow passageways until you come out on top of the temple to enjoy the breathtaking view across the Bagan plains. Ride a bicycle along dusty trails at your own pace or relax in a horse cart with a guide. Don't miss both a sunset and a sunrise over the temple-strewn plain. 


To be honest, I don't know which I loved more . . . the temples or the food. The taste and smell of AROMA (2) Indian Restaurant still lingers in my mind. I would go back there in a heartbeat. In addition to being Lonely Planet's top choice, it must have the best gluten-free food in the entire country of Myanmar. A huge menu of authentic Indian dishes will ensure you don't tire of this restaurant even if you go there for every meal (like I did). Talk to the owner directly or his son to find out which options are gluten-free (which are almost all of them . . . other than the naan of course!) 

They don't use any MSG or animal fats. They pride themselves in their 100% satisfaction guarantee. The portions are generous and they will happily pack you food to go or let you order something in advance to have ready for pick-up before that bike ride to watch the sunset. When I realized the horse cart was a bit too rocky to eat on, I instead enjoyed their kebabs atop an ancient temple overlooking the river and Bagan plains - a breath-taking site for a picnic. The candlelit tables out under the night sky also make is a romantic spot to end the day. Anyway, go to Bagan for the temples AND for Bagan's gluten-free food!

Aroma (2) Indian Restaurant
Yarkinnthar Hotel Road
Bagan-Nyaung Oo,
Tel: 09-2042630
 

PLACES TO STAY AWAY FROM IN BAGAN:

The Beach Bagan - Restaurant and Bar
This place is where the huge tour groups go. It's a nice view of the river and you'll have the place to yourself if you go in the afternoon. But the menu is way overpriced. I tried a strawberry shake and what they brought me was room temperature milk with maybe one strawberry mixed in. I asked them to put in some ice, but let's face it, strawberry milk with ice is not that appetizing. Better to just order a Coke. Or not go at all.

The Moon - Vegetarian Restaurant
I had high hopes for this restaurant. The atmosphere is really nice and it's located way out in Old Bagan, so it would make a nice midday stop if you hadn't packed a lunch. Their very health conscious menu also led me to believe they would be able to help me find some gluten-free choices. However, it seemed they didn't understand my questions, would often just answer with what they thought I wanted to hear, and in the end, the food they brought me was not gluten-free, so my husband had to eat it and I went hungry. It seems like if whoever helped develop this restaurant in the first place came back for a visit and did a little allergy education, it has great potential to be a very gluten-free friendly place in Bagan.

Other Myanmar Cities:

Gluten-free YANGON
INLE LAKE

Gluten-free Burma - YANGON

I stayed in Yangon (Rangoon) just long enough to see the Shwedegon Pagoda and arrange travel to the more far-flung parts of Myanmar. My hotel breakfast included eggs and tea which complemented the gluten-free bread I brought with me. The grocery store was amazing and I made a few stir-fry meals in my hotel room. Then I found the Green Mile and had some delicious food, which I cannot now remember the name of, with no ill-effects, giving me courage as I headed to Bagan and Inle Lake. Below is the information for the Korean restaurant and grocery store, along with other helpful places in the capital.

Gluten-free Dining:
Green Mile Korean Restaurant
Tel: 661336
Although a lot or Korean food is not gluten-free, this restaurant is very health conscious. They do not use any MSG and the owner/manager is very aware of what each dish contains, so be sure to talk to her directly, not just to the waiter, when asking about which menu items are okay for you to eat.

Grocery Store:
City Mart Supermarket
Myae Ni Ghone Branch
Tel: 508470 or 50849
This grocery store has more imported/western products that most grocery stores in China. It's a great place to go to get snacks like Snickers, M&Ms, etc, as well as staples for cooking your own food like rice, chicken breasts, and veggies.


Internet access:
Coffee Circles
107 (A) dhamma zedi road
Tel: 95-1-525157
coffeecircles@gmail.com
www.thecoffeecircles.com

Travel Agent:
Seven Diamond Express Travel
Corner of U Wi Zar Ya & Damazedi Road
(just down the street a few shops from the Coffee Circle)
Tel: (+951) 731 26002  or  500421 or 500182
www.sevendiamondtravel.com
If you're going to fly, don't worry about searching for the lowest price. Domestic flights, regardless of the airline, time or day of flight, are the same cost within a few dollars no matter where you buy. The relatively longer flights (Yangon to Bagan, Mandalay, or Inle/Heho) are approximately $90-$100. The short flight between Bagan and Inle/Heho is about $66. Booking earlier will give you your choice of day/time of travel and you'll get the direct flights. When I flew from from Yangon to Bagan, it took all morning, because my flight first stopped in Inle/Heho, and then in Mandalay before finally arriving in Bagan.


Sleeping:
Hotel Ruby
No.23 Bawga Street
9th Mile, Mayangone
Tel: (95) 1 662536
hotelruby-yangon@mptmail.net
http://www.hotelruby-yangon.com
Close to the airport, nice spacious rooms for the price, friendly staff, and most importantly a fridge for keeping gluten-free food make this place my top choice.

Currency Exchange:
Summit Parkview Hotel
Northern Breeze Art Gallery
No.350 Ahlone Road
Dagon Tsp., Yangon
Tel: 211888 or 211966 ext: 178
Any taxi driver will know this hotel, but don't go to the hotel desk to exchange money, this exchange place is actually tucked away off to the side of the lobby after you walk past a hotel restaurant, some shops with tourist stuff and through an art gallery. They have good exchange rates and are the only place that is open on Sundays for exchanging currency.

Other Myanmar cities:

Gluten-free BAGAN
Gluten-free INLE LAKE

Gluten Free Travel in Burma / Myanmar

Myanmar (also known as Burma) is opening up. The government is making some steps in the right direction as far as human rights and democracy is concerned. It's fast becoming a travel hot spot for those who want to catch a glimpse of this country of golden stupas and isolated mountain peoples before it modernizes. 

So, hop on a plane and experience Burma before it's too late . . . and don't let being gluten-free stop you. Here are some tips to traveling gluten-free in Burma / Myanmar and well as some other recommendations for your trip. Click by city below for travel information for that specific city, including restaurants that had gluten-free options.

Gluten-free YANGON (Rangoon)

Chinese Cabbage (小白菜 xiao3bai2cai4)

Known as bok choy in Cantonese, this tasty green is packed with Vitamin A. It's a quick and simple stir-fry:

Chop off end to separate leaves.

Wash.

Stir fry together with chopped garlic in oil until leafs shrink/look wilted (~2 minutes).

Serve immediately.

Ground spices and cross-contamination with wheat

Cleaning out grinders with bread is a common practice here in Asia. Whether it be meat grinders or spice grinders. In another post I've warned against store-bought ground beef that is not safe on a gluten-free diet. When is comes to spices, I give the same caution.

I have also seen Uyghers in Central Asian markets feed naan (flat-bread) through their spice grinders whenever they grind a different spice. The bread absorbs the previous spice's odor prior to grinding a new spice, so as not to get chili tasting cinnamon, etc. However, this also introduces gluten into your ground spice.

Therefore, buy your spices already ground from a manufacturer you trust, or buy them whole and grind them yourself. Freshly ground spices are not only gluten-free but bursting with flavor that will enhance whatever dish you are making. For grinding at home, use a spice grinder, blender, magic bullet, or coffee grinder. Or, if you don't need them ground super well, a good old fashioned mortar and pestle should do the trick.

WARNING: ground beef is NOT gluten-free

Lasagna, tacos, hamburgers, chili . . . ground beef is an absolute staple in many of our favorite foods. However, months after I had started my gluten-free diet in China, I was still having issues. The culprit? Store bought ground beef. After talking to the butchers at the grocery store, I discovered that they "clean" their meat grinders by running a few slices of bread through it at the end of the day. A fantastic time-saving solution for them, but unfortunately a big cross-contamination disaster.

The solution? Grind your own beef. Meat grinders are very cheap to purchase and simple to use. Then, you buy a slab of beef, cut it into approximately 2 inch square pieces, and feed it through the grinder. This option also lets you choose what quality of beef you want (I usually ask for whatever cut has the least amount of fat). Rather than using bread, I recommend simply washing the meat grinder immediately after use, to avoid raw meat getting dried on to all those moving parts. Ground spices are also affected by this practice. Click here to read more.